tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-54901203195835130882024-03-12T19:16:11.953-07:00Director of ARTEKOld music in a modern world: Gwendolyn Toth shares her life as a musicianGwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.comBlogger70125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-28071811261101806152013-08-13T16:48:00.000-07:002013-10-12T17:14:05.299-07:00Trebantiqua festival in Trevi nel Lazio, ItalyOn Tuesday, August, 13, Dongsok and I traveled by air to Rome, Italy from Krakow, Poland. I would be playing a concert with ARTEK violinist Cynthia Freivogel at the Trebantiqua Festival in Trevi nel Lazio, Italy. We had to change planes in Frankfurt, so our trip took most of the entire day, including the 2 hour drive to Trevi nel Lzaio from Rome. Our good friends Marco and Giuseppe met us, and after settling into the hotel we made a quick trip uphill to the town proper to show Dongsok the town since he had never been there before, then we all ate dinner and caught up on news with each other. Cynthia arrived the following day, and we rehearsed in the church with the magnificent 17th-century organ. We also attended the concert by Dan Laurin and his wife Anna Paradiso - Dongsok becoming man of the hour as he stepped up and tuned the harpsichord for them before the concert. Perfectly, of course.<br />
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We played an interesting program for a 17th century organ in meantone with short octave:<br />
Lucchesi (Mozart-era Italian classical keyboard concerto arranged for one violin and organ by yours truly); a solo violin piece by Vilsmayr, Austrian baroque composer; Reincken's Fugue in G minor for solo organ; Sonata for violin and continuo by Muffat, La Folia for solo organ by Storace (of course this was perfect for the organ) and Corelli's La Folia. The Muffat is a very strange piece! Extremely chromatic with many accidentals, so some judicious "leaving out" of notes was required...plus, many notes needing to be taken an octave higher because of the short octave keyboard. Yikes! The Mozart era piece, in contrast, was perfectly easy to perform on this organ.<br />
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In the concert, the highlight was definitely Cynthia's performance of the Vilsmayr. She played with musical intensity, perfect intonation, and a beautiful sweet tone. The audience was rapt. Everything else went well too, but that piece was very special. All in all, the concert was a lovely end to our 2013 summer travels abroad.<br />
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Trevi nel Lazio:<br />
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The Bonifaci organ in Trevi nel Lazio<br />
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Our friend Giuseppe Schinaia:<br />
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Photos from the performance:<br />
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Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-53949581504822797182013-08-12T15:01:00.000-07:002013-10-12T16:14:33.836-07:00Zamosc and back to KrakowOn Monday, August 12 we traveled from Krasnobrod to Zamosc, where we would pick up a van that would take us back to Krakow - we were assured that the van would be the best and likely only way back - "the trains, you might never get there because you'd need 3 connections". Father Maciej drove us the hour to Zamosc. Although his English was limited, he was eager to converse with us and we shared many interesting facts about our respective countries. Overall in Poland, we were impressed by many clergy in their sincere devotion to their calling as priests. It was one of the things that struck us most during our visit - the near total sway of the Roman Catholic Church, and the strong priesthood. So many dedicated younger priests, something one does not see in the US so often, where priests' funerals far outnumber the ordinations of new priests. On the other hand, the second most memorable thing about Poland was learning that, before the second World War, the local population in the Lubaczow & Krasnobrod areas was less than 50%. Now, 98%. (Russian orthodox churches seem to have been closed since the breakdown of the USSR). The destructive elements of the 20th century, from the emigration and/or extermination of a significant Jewish population (over 40%), to the loss of buildings and dislocation of people, is everywhere still evident. We were reminded of our friend Bill Zukof passing a sign for the town of Zukow - pronounced, Zukof. Surely his people were from the area (I checked, and he confirmed that).<br />
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In Zamosc, we were treated to the surprise of a beautiful restored Renaissance town. Zamosc is now a World Heritage site, and much recent renovation has taken place in the historic churches, synagogue (though there are apparently now no Jews), town square, and many other monuments. The color and festive spirit of the town was a distinct contrast to the bleak looking towns full of undistinguished postwar buildings; we had seen previously; in Krasnobrod, after the baroque church and monastery, the only other old building was a house from the 1880s. Zamosc was "designed" in the late 16th century by the Italian architect Bernardo Morando - an early example of a planned city. Father Maciej took us on a walking tour of the Old Town and a visit to the cathedral. Afterwards, we visited the church gift shop to obtain our very own mini Virgin Mary car protection statue, which the shop insisted on giving to us gratis, as a gift to my daughter who is fascinated by religious iconography and symbolism (she loved it).<br />
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Our van was a small bus, seating at least 20 people in very tight quarters. The best guess for the length of the journey was something between 4 and 6 hours; in fact it was very close to 6 hours (including a 20 minute rest stop). On the map, it looks like a 3 hour drive; but, there are no highways between Krakow and the eastern part of the country, and the bus made its winding way through every major town. Many many towns. It wasn't too terribly hot, but it was far from comfortable (small, crowded seats) and it seemed INTERMINABLE. We realized how lucky indeed we had been to have the brand new train with AC on the way to Lubaczow! Evening, we checked back into our familiar Krakow hotel, went out for one more great meal, and fell into bed.<br />
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Some pictures from Zamosc - the Great Market Square.<br />
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Another view of the square, and the colorful buildings.<br />
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Gwen and Father Maciej in the square<br />
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Detail from one of the buildings<br />
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The interior of the Cathedral<br />
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The organ in the Cathedral (not the original organ within the case, unfortunately)<br />
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Exterior of the Cathedral</div>
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Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-1680789151754792132013-08-10T22:44:00.000-07:002013-10-12T17:14:49.008-07:00Concert in Krasnobrod, PolandOn Saturday, August 10, we were driven about one and a half hours north to Krasnobrod, where I was to play on the organ in the 17th century church, the Shrine of Our Lady of Krasnobrod. The church and the attached monastery complex (which includes a small zoo, mostly exotic birds, tended by one of the priests) are the only ancient monuments in the area, everything else having been flattened numerous times by battles between Russians and Germans in both World Wars.<br />
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Here, we stayed in a room in the monastery, but discovered that down the road a kilometer in the town proper of Krasnobrod, there was a thriving lake resort and actual restaurants and bars! Having tried Polish beers and finding them not my cup of tea, I realized that in Poland I should be ordering vodka drinks. In Krasnobrod I could order a White Russian drink for the equivalent of about $2.50. Not bad.<br />
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The priests in Krasnobrod were equally kind to us (we also ate meals with them, with the exact same basic menu as in Lubaczow). A notable moment was when Dongsok mistook a bottle of unmarked clear liquid for a water bottle. Whoops! That was the vodka. Fortunately he realized, from the surprised looks on the faces of the priests, before he slugged down a water glass of the stuff. We asked about wifi, but made the mistake of asking "is there wifi here" while we were in the dining room. No, they said. We resigned ourselves to being untethered from the devices, and using our Euro cell phone to call our son as needed. Ha! On our second day, a Polish priest Father Jerry, returned for a visit who now works in a parish in Chicago. Eureka! Someone to speak English with! At some point he mentioned that we could look up something on the internet for our return bus travel. To our surprise, there was super fast internet - in our rooms; just not in the dining room!<br />
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Like Lubaczow, I again played on a modern organ (again with the peculiar little tabs for stop combos), but the church's excellent acoustics were a great benefit.<br />
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The exterior of the church:<br />
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The beautiful interior:<br />
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The organ:<br />
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A few pictures taken during the concert:</div>
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Speeches after the concert:<br />
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The famous picture of Our Lady of Krasnobrod, which is attributed with a miraculous ability to survive potential destruction by weather, war, etc:<br />
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Here I am in a poster, right next to the poster of the Pope!</div>
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A teeny video taken when I was practicing & registering the stops (I had very little time to practice because of the mass schedule).<br />
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<br />Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-13054265692463679202013-08-07T21:49:00.000-07:002013-10-12T17:14:30.924-07:00Concert in Lubaczow, PolandStepping off the train, we knew we were far from western Europe. We were 30 km from the border with Ukraine. Our first destination was the town of Lubaczow, where I played in the local cathedral, and we stayed in the parish guest house, taking all our meals with the priests in their dining room. It was a real taste of food Polish style - meat (ham, sausage) at every meal; rye bread and butter; pickles & radishes. Other items that varied, but those were always present. The pastor, Father Andrzej, was a great guy who was determined to converse with us despite our complete lack of Polish and his complete lack of English. At first, he invited other guests to meals who could speak English and be the translator; but then we discovered, thanks to wireless in the dining room, that we could carry on perfectly fine conversations between my nook and his Samsung tablets: we each had our translation program opened, and would type our reply and show the other person our answer on the tablet! Miracles of modern technology.<br />
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On Thursday, after practicing for the concert in the morning, Fr. Andrzej was determined that we would have some sort of local tourist experience. Now, we had just spent the past 2 days sightseeing in Krakow, and our feet were tired; plus, it was 95 degrees out (by some miracle, our train to Jaroslaw had AC, which was noted with amazement by every Polish person we mentioned this to. Guess we got really lucky that day and got a new train!). So, since we were out in the country, in a very rural area, I asked if there was perhaps a lake or swimming pool where we could have a bit of cooling-off and relaxation. Much discussion ensued amongst the priests. Then, the tablet was passed to me: "Do you like kayaking?" Yes! So we spent the entire afternoon with a Polish university student who spoke English, and a young priest newly ordained. They took us first to a lovely lake and recreation area for about an hour; then we piled back in the car and went a bit further where we ended up on a kayak river trip - on a very small and quite shallow river - that lasted about 4 hours! We had great fun. What a special day that Father Andrzej had arranged for us.<br />
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In the evening we visited the old church to see the clearly old small 8th-century organ in the loft. Alas, though the baroque case was beautiful, it looked like it had been reworked in the 19th century. But, no one, including the priest, could figure out how to turn the organ on! I have searched and found strangely hidden startup mechanisms for organs in countless churches over the years. This was the first organ that I just could NOT find any switch, electrical outlet, anything. We had to give up!<br />
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Friday was my concert. The pictures show that the organ is from the 1960s (?) and also you can see the typically Polish 20th century organ console. There are little colored tabs that get clicked on for combinations (only a few combinations were possible; good thing I wasn't playing Reger!!!) I had never seen anything like it before but I figured it out. During the concert, program notes were read from the lectern in between each piece. Afterwards, many speeches and flowers and food and drink. Wonderful people.<br />
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Pictures:<br />
Here is the gate leading to the church, from yet another era, with a large banner for the organ concerts:<br />
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The church was a strange architectural amalgam: a baroque church was enlarged in the 1960s to accommodate the growing Catholic population (these parts of Poland are now 98% Roman Catholic) by grafting a thoroughly modern building onto the apse of the old building, but facing sideways. The two interiors were linked but separate. The old church functioned as a chapel, being long and narrow; the newer church was now the main worship space.<br />
Here you see the old church and new church where they connect:<br />
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Here, the interior of the new church<br />
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And the interior of the old church, now a chapel.<br />
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Here is the baroque organ case in the chapel.<br />
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Here is the organ I played my concert on.<br />
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Playing during the concert. You can see the little tabs for combos.<br />
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Father Andrzej making speeches<br />
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And, my kayaking friends!<br />
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Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-51195921786761114592013-08-07T20:16:00.000-07:002013-10-11T20:54:25.281-07:00A baroque organ in Krakow, before traveling eastOn Wednesday, August 7, we made a date with our Polish friend Arkadiusz Bialic to see and play the organ in the Church of the Holy Ghost in Krakow. The organ was built in 1704 and has been recently restored, beautifully. A marvelous organ, on which I hope I can play a full concert someday.<br />
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Here is a picture of the organ:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UltZcq_ydp0/UljCoG9iZSI/AAAAAAAAA0A/0ZxAUA4z6XA/s1600/Church+of+the+Holy+Cross+organ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UltZcq_ydp0/UljCoG9iZSI/AAAAAAAAA0A/0ZxAUA4z6XA/s320/Church+of+the+Holy+Cross+organ.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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up a little closer, here is Arek and I in the balcony<br />
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a wonderful little decoration -<br />
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Here you can see me playing the organ<br />
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and here is a short video of how the organ sounds<br />
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Another tiny video, where Dongsok filmed some of the easily visible tracker connections (these are of the pedal).<br />
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After the lovely visit to the organ, we said goodbye to Arek, who had been so kind in arranging the concert in Olkusz and showing us many things in Krakow. We hope to see him again soon!<br />
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At 1 pm we boarded a train to the east, in the direction of the unpronounceable town of Przsmysl (what happened to vowels in Polish?), where we would be collected at the train station in Jaroslaw by our hosts from Lubaczow, where my next concert was.<br />
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Here's a picture of me on the train:<br />
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and outside the train!<br />
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A view while traveling</div>
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This is a building we saw near the train station in Jaroslaw. The entire end wall of the building was covered with decorative images - how old, hard to know.</div>
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<br />Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-10002286296944919552013-08-05T05:55:00.000-07:002013-10-11T20:31:21.520-07:00In KrakowMonday August 5 and Tuesday August 6 were our two "vacation" days in Krakow where we would just be tourists - not something that happens often for Dongsok and me! Krakow has many beautiful monuments, including numerous baroque churches, the castle, and the central square, but soon we realized that in most cases these were reconstructions based on the originals. Wawel Castle for example, and the stunning ancient-looking marketplace building on the main square: a tiny bit Disney.<br />
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Krakow University was particularly interesting; we waited for the mechanical clock to perform at 3 pm and were enchanted. Here's a video:<br />
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Two pictures of the University: a hallway with Italianate painted decoration, and a wall gargoyle<br />
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We did see many beautiful organs in Krakow, but most (sadly, from my point of view) have been updated and modernized in the 19th and 20th centuries. Here, some of these interesting organ cases:<br />
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Church of Saints Peter and Paul<br />
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St. Anne's Church<br />
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St. Mary's Church<br />
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Another view of St. Mary's interior<br />
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. We spent an entire day at Wawel Castle, a huge complex, with many buildings and separate museum exhibitions. In one day, we could not see it all. The chapel there had a beautiful baroque organ.Here's a picture:<br />
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A fanciful downspout at Wawel Castle<br />
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We also ate wonderful food at very reasonable prices, in comparison to Germany. Here's Dongsok and his iphone in an outdoor cafe.<br />
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One of the most arresting aspects of Krakow was the playing of a trumpet fanfare from the steeple of St. Mary's church, which is right in the main square. Apparently, this is done live, once every hour around the clock, by three shifts of trumpeters. Our hotel was located just off the main square in the heart of the tourist district, and at night it was incredibly noisy (and, I say this as someone who lives on the third floor above Amsterdam Avenue: not a quiet location). The sound of early-am partying on the nearby streets kept us awake, and was punctuated regularly by the fanfare. However it was a charming hotel - here's a picture of the old-fashioned elevator:<br />
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<br />Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-76183927479501643612013-08-04T11:39:00.000-07:002013-08-06T12:33:44.633-07:00First concert in PolandOn Saturday, Aug.3, we arrived early evening in Krakow. Beautiful city! Our hotel is right near the very center. Sunday morning we meet a new friend, Arkadiusz Bialic, who made all the arrangements for the concert (a wonderful organist himself). Together, we drive first to the castle Pieskowa Slawa, for a brief visit before arriving in Olkusc.<br />
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We did manage to see there one keyboard instrument!<br />
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After lunch, we arrived at the church in Olkusz, where my concert wouldd take place at 6 pm. I had from 2-4 to practice my program. The organ was really interesting - it clearly needs a new renovation (the keyboard is extremely heavy, and the temperament has, as Arek says, "a mistake in it". Hm yes - Bb is somewhere south of the North Pole and the G-D fifth is more or less a wolf fifth. Unfortunately I have at least 5 pieces in G minor. O---kay! But it's still an amazing instrument - short octave both keyboard and pedals; big stop list - as many pedal stops as on the hauptwerk. The positiv has amazing wrought iron levers in the side of the case (it's hard to describe, but we had to get a flashlight out to read the stop labels) that there's no way I am going to pull on, ever. Good thing Dongsok is with me! <br /><br />I had one piece with me that fits the Sion organ (Valente - Paso e mezo) which goes up to high C, but this organ only goes to high A - like the Zeerijp organ. So that piece was interesting to play - I had to keep transposing down phrases on the fly. Other pieces I was constantly changing open fifths G-D to drop the fifth when I could. Dongsok got to play the tympanum on the battle piece! All in all, despite a short rehearsal time, the concert went really well, and the audience (the church was quite full) seemed to love the funky old organ music of the medieval, Renaissance, and early baroque eras...There was a musicologist speaking before each piece who explained it to the audience, which I think really helped a lot. It was all in Polish, but I caught the phrase "Landini cadenz" which is exactly right for the earliest piece. Afterwards, flowers, speeches, newsphotos... more speeches...<br />I'm definitely not in the USA.<br />
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Pictures from Olkusc (maybe in a few days a video will appear here too!)<br /><br />
<br />Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-51147132686648488252013-07-28T09:03:00.000-07:002013-08-06T11:15:17.998-07:00Travel in Germany - a lengthy taleOn Sunday, July 28,we left Switzerland early in the morning. Our first stop was still in Switzerland, at a museum we had just heard about the day before. The Museum of the Organ. Hmmmm. Possibly some more really old small Swiss organs? We found the museum in Roche, Switzerland, about 45 min from Sion, and the curator/owner/resident organ enthusiast, Monsieur Gramm, was waiting for us and jumped enthusiastically into his :"short" tour. A funny, special place! There was a fascinating reconstruction of an Egyptian water organ (that really played), exhibits on types of organ pipes, wind systems, and various methods for electrifying the various mechanical components of the organ. And many, many small models of different large (Romantic, in many cases) organs; plus, a giant 20th century organ stuffed into a large loft-like space, with lots of other partial organs, pipes, cases, and keyboards around. There was indeed one old Italianate organ, with a foot pump, from the early 17th century. I did get to play it a moment, and it was wonderful, before the tour moved on to the art deco console in the place of highest esteem and we heard a teeny concert from Monsieur Gramm. Actually, a perfect place to bring schoolchildren and show them the innards of organs throughout the centuries - and we could use one of those in the US. (Complete with authentic 18th c instrument of course).<br />
Egyptian organ:<br />
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The big modern concert organ<br />
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The beautiful 17th century organ<br />
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Later that afternoon we got to the instrument museum in Stuttgart, where we planned to look at the Stein fortepianos in particular, and many other instruments also. But, the person we had intended to meet couldn't make it at the last minute, so we toured the instruments without playing them. Afterwards we checked into our Stuttgart hotel.<br />
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'The next morning - disaster! Alas, I had had my notebook with all my music - fortepiano, organ concerts - in my hand when we toured. It was nowhere to be found in the Mercedes or in our room. Thinking carefully, I realized I had set it down at some point in the tour around the museum, and....had very likely not picked it up again. (Here's where the blog should be "Life of an ADD organist". The museum was entirely closed on Monday, and no one picked up our phone calls to the music department. Fortunately, our schedule was entirely flexible, so we decided to stay until Tuesday morning, visit the museum again, and hopefully retrieve the notebook. I cannot lie: I was a nervous wreck thinking about what if it could not be found...which pile had my Faenza codex at Immanuel Church and who could possibly find it, pull out the correct untitled dance (one of many), scan it...that's just one piece...(I could almost more easily resurrect it from memory - maybe - with the help of the recent videos...there were at least 30 pieces in there that I absolutely needed in the 3 entirely different programs over the next 3 weeks.<br />
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Monday was spent working, both of us: I was formatting the ARTEK season brochure, Dongsok editing our Rosenmuller CD. And some shopping. A day without any keyboards whatsoever...how strange...first time this trip.<br />
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On Tuesday we went to the museum. For about a half hour it seemed that the notebook no longer existed, no one had found it, cleaning people had come in on Monday and who knew...cold sweat here. Then suddenly the nice receptionist realized she had an extra black notebook in her desk - and it was mine! Yes!!! All was OK again. The bonus was that this time we were able to play the instruments. One Stein we liked very much; the other seemed to have exceptionally hard, bright-sounding hammer covers which was interesting but not very fun to play. We also played a simply wonderful early French (17th century) harpsichord, and an early Italian harpsichord (below). That was a highlight for me.<br />
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Then we moved on towards a hotel in the town of Weimar. Dongsok had decided he would like to hang out in "the land of Bach" and see his birthplace, churches he had played in, and towns & cities where he had worked for the next few days.<br />
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On the way, we stopped at the Würzburg Residenz, home of the Bishop princes of Würzburg, built in the 18th century. No keyboards, but beautiful ceiling paintings and frescos by Tiepolo. Yay for Italians!<br />
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In Weimar, we did some touring around this lovely 18th century town, with its huge number of palace-like buildings. And ate Hungarian food. Below- plaque commemorating where Bach USED to live in Weimar.<br />
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The next day, we visited the Bachhaus, in Eisenach (place of Bach's birth), which Dongsok had visited in the past, over ten years ago. Like many attractions in the former East Germany section, it had changed much in the time since he had been there last. This is a house - unfortunately not exactly the house he had been born in, but one very near to it - with exhibits on his life and a number of keyboard instruments. One we had hoped to see, a small early German harpsichord, was no longer being exhibited, however. The other instruments included a modern harpsichord and spinet, an antique clavichord, and two antique organs from the region. A young teen did the demonstration; alas, had she been Bach's child, I think she would have been sent to bed without any supper for her performance! She played, very nervously, a few pieces from Anna Magdalena & Willhelm Friedemann books, and became totally lost in the last piece on the harpsichord and had to stop without finishing it! (I felt a bit like whispering "G sharp in the bass!" but I restrained myself...Afterwards she told us she was a music education student. (Fortunately, only 5 people in the audience!). Sad to say, although she was allowed to demonstrate the instruments ((despite her lack of ability) we were not allowed to touch the antique organs or clavichord. Sigh.<br />
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We also looked into the church in Eisenach where Bach was baptised, and the Latin school that Martin Luther attended 200 years before Bach's time. (Turns out Bach Land is also Luther Land. Not much surprise there!) Here's the Luther House in Eisenach, below.<br />
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We spent some more time on our music editing/graphic design work and then moved on to Dresden on Thursday. There, we visited Schloss Pillnitz where resides the original 5-octave Gräbner harpsichord. This is the instrument I have ordered a copy of from the esteemed American builder and harpsichord restorer, John Phillips. No playing though - even though we had tried sending emails much earlier, we had been warned that it is difficult to make a connection to a curator to actually try out an instrument in this area of Germany.<br />
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Although the Gräbner is a rather plainly decorated instrument - thought to be originally intended for use at the Dresden Opera House - the castle was filled with examples of fabulous chinoiserie, which is the decoration I am ordering for my own Gräbner.<br />
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And here's another instrument at Schloss Pillnitz - a harpsichord-hidden-in-a-piece-of-furniture.<br />
Very efficient for NYC apartments! And cute.<br />
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We also went into the center of Dresden, where we marveled at the amount of reconstruction since World War 2, and visited the rebuilt Dresden Frauenkirche, with its large and beautiful baroque-replica organ case (originally a Silbermann, totally destroyed in WW2 also, now a modern organ instrument with 8,192 levels of memory. Gee but I think I might actually need 8,193 if I ever play there...what to do...). We also saw the Hofkirche in Dresden which does still retain its original, restored, 18th century Silbermann organ. (With exactly zero levels of memory :)<br />
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The no-memory Silbermann in the Hofkirche<br />
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The next day, we went on to Berlin, where we visited the Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin, with a small Silbermann organ in the royal chapel.<br />
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Exterior of the palace, and Dongsok, feeling the heat.<br />
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Charlottenburg was a fascinating palace complex, particularly because so much of it was built and decorated in the Chinese style which was a serious fad in the 18th century, apparently. Many more examples of Chinoiserie decoration to take note of for our Gräbner decoration. (Black shows off the gold decoration the best but...red chinoiserie is so fabulous...we have until October to decide...).<br />
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In that palace, there are two 18th century harpsichords by Miettke with chinoiserie decoration - one a white background (very, very beautiful, but in New York...I feel it would be like wearing white pants on the subway) and one with a black background.<br />
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Just enough time that day to also head towards Potsdam and Frederick the Great's palace at Sans Souci. There are so many buildings and palaces connected to Frederick the Great and Sans Souci that it's actually a bit difficult to find the right one.<br />
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We knew there was a Silbermann piano there; we found a room with a closed keyboard instrument that the docent in the room assured us was a Silbermann, with hammers, not a clavecin, from1747. And Bach had played it. Hm. Looked suspiciously like an English style harpsichord, but we couldn't get too close, and the keyboard was covered. No other keyboards on exhibit. (There should have been at least two Silbermanns, actually.) Well, some internet search later confirmed that what we saw was indeed an English harpsichord, a Shudi, one of two that Frederick the Great owned, ordered by him in 1764. Don't think JS Bach ever played that; but likely CPE did.<br />
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On Saturday, we said goodbye to our quite wonderful, dust-covered Mercedes (now plaintively complaining every startup to please give me my 25,000 km checkup) at the Berlin airport and flew to Krakow in Poland - via a stop in Frankfurt, A bit roundabout way to get there, but an easy trip.<br />
<br />Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-52950423520082800152013-07-27T14:13:00.000-07:002013-08-02T02:01:22.110-07:00Concert in SionOn Saturday, July 27, I played the recital in Sion. As I was nearing the end of the program, I remembered that once I was finished it would be the end of playing the instrument for this trip. Sad!<br />
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Here's a link to the video of the final piece from the program - Charles Racquet, Fantaisie (published 1615).<br />
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<a href="http://youtu.be/dGoOUAzel-c">Racquet on Youtube</a><br />
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The concert was a complete success; at the reception afterwards, the director, Maurice Wenger, told the assembled guests "there cannot be 2 without 3" which completely mystified me for a moment (my French is not quite up to this) and then my friend Ernst Bucher clarified that the reference was that I would certainly also play a third recital in the future. Happy!<br />
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Many thanks to Irma Bucher, our wonderful host for the days in Sion - here's a picture of Irma and her brother Ernst with me at the reception, and also one with Monsieur Wenger.<br />
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Also a picture of Dongsok and me with Véronique Dubuis, the organist who also administers the series, who drove us up and down the mountain for each practice, saving my feet and energy for the organ. Like us, she plays both historical organ and harpsichord. She was so kind to us (and so forgiving of my SIMPLY AWFUL French).<br />
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Last, a few more pictures from Sion - one, a night picture of the cathedral from Thursday night, when we visited the "Son et Lumiere" show at the base of the cathedral and castle; and a view from the Cathedral out towards the mountains and the castle (on the next hill over from the cathedral).<br />
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<br />Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-50570523707188735202013-07-24T03:43:00.000-07:002013-07-26T02:37:52.093-07:00Arrival in SionThe next morning we stopped for a visit to Freiburg im Breisgau, a large city with a famous medieval cathedral from 1200. Loved the silver cross dating from the same time, the tower with its medieval (and modern) bells and clockworks. Very sad to see a medieval bird's-nest organ on the wall of the church where the organ was totally replaced in the 19th century, destroying all the remnants of the medieval organ. Also 3 other modern organs in the church.<br />
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By mid-afternoon, we reached Sion. It;'s a lovely city nestled in a valley amidst the Alps. The organ is in a cathedral on top of a small mountain at the edge off the town. We get driven up to a point halfway up, then we walk the remainder of the way.<br />
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Inside the cathedral, the organ is waiting. There's nothing more to say. I am completely in heaven. It is so marvellous that an organ from 1425 is so easy to play, sounds so amazing, and just seems to float over the entire cathedral. It's another world. Dongsok and I practice the music for Saturday's concert for 3.5 hours, which pass in mere moments.</div>
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Dongsok on the stairway up to the organ loft</div>
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<br />Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-2961559378399496632013-07-23T03:33:00.000-07:002013-08-05T13:14:11.241-07:00Onwards to GermanyToday, we left our friends in the Netherlands and headed out (in our lovely Mercedes!) to Germany. Our goal for the day was Ettenheim, just in the beginning of the Black Forest area. ARTEK violinist Theresa Salomon has connections here, and had arranged for us to see a Silbermann organ in Ettenheimmuenster, the next village. By late afternoon, after MUCH slow driving for traffic and roadworks, we reached our goal. Here's a few pictures of thee church and organ:<br />
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After, a German dinner with Alsatian specialties, window-shopping, and a walk around the totally charming country village of Ettenheim.<br />
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<br />Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-51959970239831354302013-07-22T03:11:00.000-07:002013-08-05T13:14:49.400-07:00Visiting more Dutch organsMy niece Karen joined us for part of this trip, and I'm afraid she didn't quite know what she was getting into, organ-wise. Today we took her in the morning to four nearby churches - Oosterwijtwerd, Krewerd, Holwierde, Marsum.<br />
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Oosterwijtwerd: a teeny tiny town, lovely, and a historic church.</div>
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The Benedictine churches of the Groningen province are: Zeerijp, Holwierde, Noordbroek, and Zuidbroek. If these names are sounding familiar, it's because I've recorded in 2 of them, played the organs in three of them, and visited all of them. </div>
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Krewerd will always be one of the most special organs for me. I played my old friend for a half hour and wish it could have been much more. It is a thrilling combination of sometimes a pussycat, sometimes a lion. And in a small (just a few stops) organ and a very small church. Be careful for your listeners is you put on more than 3 stops.<br />
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I have some previous youtube examples of this organ:<br />
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Holwierde is also, along with Krewerd, one of the few church still with the rood screen from before the Reformation time. The organ there used to be on tip of the screen, as it is in Krewerd, but when the church was restored from major damage in the second world war, the organ was moved to the "modern normal" spot in the balcony in the back of the church.<br />
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Above - Leny and Karen on top of the rood screen in Holwierde<br />
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Marsum is another small church building (the churches with a Benedictine heritage are the very large ones) and it now houses a replica of a medieval organ made by Winold van der Putten. It is pumped by two people standing on the bellows; it is entirely based on pictures in medieval texts. It is surprisingly hard to play when there are no "black" keys. Everything is just in one row of wooden pallets you play with your hand - G, A, B-flat, B, C, D, E, F, F-sharp, G, etc. And difficult to keep thee wind going steady. But fun to try!<br />
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In the evening we had a lovely dinner at the home of friends Vanessa and Mark Voorham in Dracht, after which we traveled into Groningen, this time to hear a concert in the Aa-kerk (the Aa is a river running through Groningen). I met Peter Westerbrink, the organist, many years ago in the late 1980s on tour with avant-garde music with the SEM ensemble, and I was able to play the Schnitger organ for an evening then. Then the organ was removed in the early 1990s from the church in order to be restored to its baroque condition. However, a discussion began at that time as to whether it was appropriate to remove the late 18th and 19th century stops, possibly in light of the fact that the Martinikerk is already a fine and massive example of Arp Schnitger's work in Groningen. After much debate the organ was left in the same condition and just cleaned and minor repairs. Now it is playing again after many years. Peter gave a concert of music from Buxtehude to Reger, with some of the later music being possibly the most successful, reinforcing the idea that this organ is appropriate for the music from the baroque through the modern era, but still with many of the wonderful baroque stops of its Schnitger heritage. <br />
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Peter Westerbrink at the organ after his concert<br />
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The small organ in the Aa-kerk (not bad either!)<br />
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Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-78346686188828504582013-07-21T14:15:00.001-07:002013-07-25T03:06:39.072-07:00Sunday concert in ZeerijpToday there was a short concert in Zeerijp.<br />
It may be the only concert I've ever played where I biked to get there.<br />
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Dongsok and I played a 2-organ piece by using the two organ manuals, I on the lower Hoofdwerk, he on the upper Rugpositief; I played the Fuga Josquin and Belli Franciae (intabulation of Janequin's La Guerrre) from my program for Switzerland;my friend Reina and my niece sang two duets (including the infamous Cat Duet as the finale); and Reina sang a lovely solo. Yes, it is possible to play "The Gift of Love" and Copland's "Simple Gifts" on a meantone, short-octave organ...and last but not least, Dongsok and I bravely tackled Mozart's 4-hand variations on a 21st-century electric piano - lovely though the audience thought it was, no need to say more about that...<br />
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Here's a few videos:<br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;">Dongsok & Gwen playing Scronx</span><br />
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<a href="http://youtu.be/T30BycQvjKA">http://youtu.be/T30BycQvjKA</a></div>
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Gwen playing Josquin</div>
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<a href="http://youtu.be/FGVeU_Ab8K0" style="color: blue; cursor: pointer;" target="_blank">http://youtu.be/FGVeU_Ab8K0</a></div>
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Gwen playing Belli Franciae</div>
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<a href="http://youtu.be/qwMpmYyZiRs" style="color: blue; cursor: pointer;" target="_blank">http://youtu.be/qwMpmYyZiRs</a></div>
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Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-77533697473439170012013-07-20T13:52:00.000-07:002013-07-21T14:15:31.710-07:00Visit to a castle and GroningenSaturday was more beautiful weather, so we made a trip to Fraeylemaborg ("borg" is castle in Dutch) in Slochteren with my niece Karen and our friends Willem and Leny. There were extensive gardens and grounds to walk around behind the castle, much of it a sort of wild forest with paths, ponds, and bridges - most un-Dutch in its un-tamed naturalness. But not unlike the grounds around my childhood home. Here's a picture of us on a woodland perch! Dongsok is good with that auto-timer.<br />
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In the castle, it was an interesting mix of furnishings from the past and some rather extreme modern art. Here's an example:<br />
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Afterwards, we went into Groningen and visited the Martinikerk with the famous organ (we did not play this one, however...I've done so in the past).<br />
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We also visited the Prinsentuin (Prince's Garden) where Dongsok took a picture of a bee in the rose garden.</div>
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Afterwards, a traditional Dutch Pannekoek (pancake) dinner, and home to prepare program notes for Sunday's concert.</div>
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Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-57849226269487596862013-07-19T13:24:00.000-07:002013-07-21T13:31:59.324-07:00A visit to the Schnitger in ZuidbroekToday we spent time at the church in Zuidbroek where our friend Henk de Vries is the organist. The magnificent organ is a late 18th-century organ by F. C. Schnitger II. Henk played his usual astounding improvisations demonstrating the organ; then we had a chance to play it. Dongsok also had fun crawling around inside with Henk while I played. Here are some pictures.<br />
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Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-70654149686235867152013-07-18T13:06:00.000-07:002013-07-21T13:24:37.707-07:00Old paintings by a modern painterHere in Zeerijp, one of the closest tourist attractions (if anything here could remotely be called that) is a visit to the village of Westeremden, about 6 km away. Dongsok and I took a break from work (me practicing, him editing CDs) and bicycled to Westeremden where we visited the home and exhibition hall of Henk Helmantel. Here is a person working is art techniques from about four centuries ago, painting mostly still lifes and interiors of Dutch churches, with a commanding sense of light and shadow in particular. For me, that's something I can relate to - I spend my life working in the musical art of four centuries ago. And I enjoy seeing it just as much as I do playing Renaissance & early baroque music - I can't imagine anything more creative, despite being centuries-old techniques.<br />
Here's a few paintings by Helmantel - I highly recommend seeing them in person. There is a modest fee to view the exhibition.<br />
<img src="data:image/jpeg;base64,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" /><br />
<img src="data:image/jpeg;base64,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" /><br />
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<img src="https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTgk16S2tgnDfqqnZMgtw1m-3rdU9sCNUhHV0D43wyg_6lVOple" /><br />
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<img src="https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRNUTvPpZVjwN76RGeQ7-65mkm_WXKHtC5WklTfeO-tgMhLbu0Xsg" /><br />
The lady at the ticket desk helpfully switched to English when I approached and asked if I was visiting...when I said "No, I'm staying in Zeerijp, and I play the organ" she said "Oh, you're Gwendolyn! You're playing the concert Sunday!" ...you should know that the concert is to be an informal, unofficial event, not publicized except by email and phone to friends of the people I am staying with.<br />
Small world here.<br />
<br />Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-13676598751903745292013-07-16T01:11:00.000-07:002013-07-18T14:54:50.541-07:00A Panda? Maybe notOn Monday, July 15, I traveled by train to Amsterdam (walking 3 km at 6:30 am to get to the Loppersum train station, nearest one to Zeerijp - some good exercise) where Cynthia Freivogel and I rehearsed all day at the lovely home of Julie and Frans Muller. The following day I made my way to Schiphol where my husband Dongsok was arriving from the US via Dublin on Aer Lingus.<br />
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After finding each other (not without some difficulty) we proceeded to the rental cars. I had reserved a Panda, which every European knows is a small car, much like those old Honda Civics. The lady at the desk, when she had given me the papers, had looked at me funny when I said "three people, all of whom will want to be able to drive."Apparently the people might fit, but not the baggage. Hmmm. So she quoted us an amount to upgrade to the next bigger car (a Toyota Auris, like a Prius, which sounded a LOT larger, but it wasn't all that much money) and said we could exchange in the garage if we wanted. You have to also understand we had a supergreat deal on the price to start with - less than the cost of two trains to Switzerland, our next destination.<br />
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Down in the garage, a very nice young fellow led us to our Panda. Very cute car. 40 mi to the gallon or more. Four doors. Very tiny looking.<br />
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OK. I looked inside. Yes there is a back seat. For midgets. Midgets without legs, clearly. Dongsok opened the back and tried to get his large suitcase in. No go. Tried putting it in the backseat. No go. At least, not with a person there too.<br />
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OK, it was looking like the Prius. Oh well, trying out an electric hybrid sounded like fun. And not much more $$ than a day at Disney World. But the nice young fellow said, "Wait! You're dropping this off in Germany?" Yep.<br />
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"I may have something else for you. Same price."<br />
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After consulting his computer he led us to two different cars. My choice: A Mercedes station wagon or a Jaguar sedan. I was dubious. "For the same price???" Well, he admitted, yes, the Mercedes for the same price - but the Jaguar "just a little more." I admit, I thought about the Jaguar - for about 10 seconds. Then I remembered how often the '68 XKE I used to own would break down (dashboard caught on fire, hood latch broke on the highway, you name it). Sleek as the Jaguar was, it was not for me. And besides, even more extra money was NOT on the agenda. So it was Mercedes or Auris - well, how could I turn down a Mercedes? Black elegance, nice large backseat, huge area for luggage. And also 40 miles to the gallon. Our drive to Switzerland & touring around in Holland & Germany would be totally comfortable for us and my niece, who would be joining us in a few days.<br />
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So we took the Mercedes! Not bad: reserve a Panda, drive away with a Mercedes.<br />
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Here's the nice man from Hertz who got us our Mercedes: Barry van der Heide, station supervisor. (Hertz, take notice: give Barry the Employee of the Month award!).<br />
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And here's me with our Mercedes, and driving (taken by Dongsok).</div>
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<br />Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-13220081198541521452013-07-14T17:27:00.000-07:002013-07-17T02:33:34.048-07:00In Zeerijp, the NetherlandsI am in Zeerijp, possibly my favorite place on earth (because, it has the largest mean-tone organ in the Netherlands - OK, that's still only 19 stops, but that's plenty for me.) And it/s in the most wonderful acoustic.<br />
I've been practicing both for my next serious concert in Sion, Switzerland, and as well I have rehearsed with Reina Zijlstra, whose family always hosts me here, most generously, in the hidden apartment complex in their Zeerijp barn. <br />
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Reina and I will give a concert on Sunday, July 21, for our families and friends here. Dongsok, my husband, will also play, and my niece Karen Toth who arrives on the 19th will sing a duet with Reina. If anybody is in the Groningen area on Sunday, July 21 at 4 pm, come hear a free concert at the Jacobuskerk!<br />
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Tonight I practiced until the light finally faded at 10:15 pm (a bit worried I might get locked in accidentally, but fortunately the man across the street who locks up every evening had not come over yet. (I think he can see the lights from the organ in his living room, so perhaps he's too polite to ask me to stop). Several neighbors who I have met in the past have dropped by while I've practiced the past few days just to listen, as well as the occasional tourist. I really am beginning to feel like I know most of the people in the village.'<br />
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Here's some pictures from the Zeerijp Jacobuskerk taken today, and a couple tiny short videos: a portion of a piece, and two about the keyboard and pedals which have been restored exactly as in 1653. There will be no Bach here...<br />
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Here's the doorway to the church, with its special painting scheme that told medieval travelers that this was a refuge for those pilgrims following the Way of St. James, to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. (They had a long way to go still.) And outside is my bike (kindly loaned by Willem van der Neck) which I use as my basic transportation here. <br />
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Next, the the organ as you first see it entering the church.<br />
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The organ is located in a balcony with a steep ladder-like stairway up to a room behind the organ, where the wind bellows are located to your left.<br />
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Straight ahead is the door to the organ loft.<br />
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Going through the door - watch your head, it's a door for those under 5 feet! I've hit my head many times. That's the back of the organ seen through the door. (Ladder is for climbing up to tune the reeds).<br />
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Looking out over the organ to the other end of the church.<br />
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On my left you can see the tall windows still letting in a lot of light at 8 pm.<br />
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Looking straight up as I sit to play, you can see the inscription from 1653 on the organ facade, giving the name of the builder: Theodorus Faber. <br />
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Now - here's a short video about the manuals on this organ. They are quite a small range - just 41 notes. (For comparison, my GG - d'' Flemish harpsichord has 56 notes.)<br />
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<br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyz4AS6nc-le_HXZ8OBOJNtjNx-A5zFy4n6sRoaz0KKmqIVslvhVG32eDzm_eYbmZRwEsxLTd9yELi6jdw-1A' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Here's another about the pedals.<br />
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Last, here's a portion of Scheidemann's Betrubet ist zu dieser Frist.</div>
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Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-43265504726103670142013-07-12T16:59:00.000-07:002013-07-14T16:59:44.729-07:00Back in blog land: Trip to Europe, summer 2013Dear friends,<br />
It's true - other than posting some recent videos, I have not made a lot of blog posts in the past year. However! Thanks to my trusty iphone and other modern tools, it's become a bit easier to keep up with things. So - if you're interested in reading about some historical organs and my travels in Europe this summer, you've come to the right place.<br />
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I left New York City (blistering, hot New York City) on July 10 and arrived in Amsterdam's Schiphol airport on August 11. Made my way to the convenient train station right in the airport. Aha.<br />
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For those of you who have not recently traveled in Europe, everyone here uses a card called a "chip and pin". In recent years it has become ever more troublesome to not have one of these. But, your Amnerican bank doesn't offer one of these. Some even SAY they do but they are chip and signature. Not a lot of help when the machine says "enter your PIN". These are absolutely essential for gas (especially at night), train stations, and many other purchases, where anything else is simply not accepted. <br />
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I was aware of this and applied for one from one of the TWO credit unions in the US that offer one of these. However, I waited a bit too long before leaving and even by paying through the nose for an expedited car, I could only get it within 5-7 business days. Grrr. (I'm happy to say it did arrive 3 days after I left & will be coming with Dongsok).<br />
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At the Schiphol train station, there are machines. Used to be my Amex would work in these. No longer. Not my debit card or Mastercard/Visa cards. Nope. (Nor could I order tickets from my computer before leaving: that requires a European credit card, too. No Paypal or Cirrus or one of those other American credit card networks.) No, these machines only take a Dutch Chip-card, one that's a debit card tied to railway ticket purchasing. (Oh, some take coins. Since I just got my Euro bills out of the bank machine, this wasn't a particularly attractive option either, for 48 Euros worth of tickets). <br />
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So I had to go to the ticket window where TO MY SHOCK they no longer accept Amex! What is the world coming to? CASH only for us Americans. And yes a $3.50 Euro charge for the privilege of being at a window and paying in Euro bills.<br />
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OK the best part of arriving was that the weather was a cool 62 or so degrees...sweater time. They predict a "heat wave" starting July 15, when temperatures here in Netherlands might actually make it up to 75 degrees. <br />
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Once again, just like every other year, I think, "Why didn't I bring my fingerless gloves?"Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-41437226016276123402013-04-21T16:28:00.000-07:002013-07-14T16:28:44.350-07:00ARTEK plays Stradella, spring 2013Guest violinist Enrico Gatti with ARTEK in Stradella's rarely heard masterpiece, San Giovanni Battista at Columbia Unversity's Italian Academy, April 18 & 20, 2013. See the videos below on Youtube (it's a mystery to me, but the Blogger dashboard can't load these videos...so I must send you to the Youtube page, apologies!)<br />
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See it here on youtube:<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y15b_IAqnyQ">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y15b_IAqnyQ</a><br />
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Also a video from rehearsal:<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0A_2vU7PeT0">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0A_2vU7PeT0</a>Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-33009402693285588982012-12-30T16:20:00.000-08:002013-07-14T16:21:38.109-07:00Highlights from ARTEK's holiday concert of Mozart, December 2012A few videos from a wonderful program, 12/29/2012.<br />
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Symphony #40, first movement:</div>
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Slow movement, Piano Concerto in C</div>
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Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-33148602463479332792012-10-21T16:03:00.000-07:002013-07-14T16:04:55.672-07:00ARTEK's theater show in Montclair, NJ (Kasser Theater)ARTEK presented a newly re-staged version of "I'll Never See the Stars Again", directed by Paul Peers, and the Kasser Theater at Montclair State University on October 20, 2012. This is ARTEK's theater show that was presented at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival in 2005 - now, with a outstanding singing cast increased to 6, and a stellar instrumental ensemble. Yes, Theseus still walks on chairs...and I am still Ariadne. (Clearly, a non-singing part!) Enjoy these scenes.<br />
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Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-57400618365258678612012-04-29T18:26:00.000-07:002012-09-08T18:27:49.357-07:00ARTEK at Corpus Christi Church, April 29, 2012Following our performance at Middlebury College on April 28 (not to mention a lovely reception following the concert), we had a good night's sleep at Middlebury's Swift House Inn (highly recommended). And a fabulous breakfast. Then we piled into the cars and drove back to New York City where we arrived at Corpus Christi Church just in time to set up quickly and prepare for our Madrigals Book 4 concert.<br />
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Although a bit road-weary, the magic of Monteverdi lifted our spirits and carried the day, and we had a very well-received performance of the complete book of madrigals. Read the review from Allan Kozinn at the New York Times below. (Click to make the annoying ad - sorry! - go away.)<br />
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<a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/02/arts/music/artek-plays-book-4-of-monteverdis-madrigals.html" target="_blank">ARTEK Plays Book 4 of Monteverdi's Madrigals</a> Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-16369357673152742342012-04-28T18:20:00.000-07:002012-09-08T18:21:03.362-07:00ARTEK visits Middlebury CollegeARTEK performed Monteverdi at the Middlebury College Second Annual Bachfest. Yes, that's right - Monteverdi and Bach.<br />
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A bit of a strange pairing, you say? Well, not so strange actually. Both composers really had a way with setting texts.<br />
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But logistically a challenge. Dan Swenberg brought two instruments; I brought two harpsichords, my lovely new folding harpsichord and the ever-practical small "Mersenne" harpsichord that I own - so we could have the appropriate temperament for each repertoire. The singers, some of them, brought two voices...Sarah Chalfy, a soprano, stepped in for mezzo-soprano Barbara Hollinshead, who was unable to participate because of a serious family illness. New-to-ARTEK tenor Owen McIntosh brought his ever-so-high Bach tenor (at 440 no less!) and his Monteverdi sometimes-quite-low voice. Peter Becker brought his Bach baritone and his Monteverdi bass voice. So goes it...<br />
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The first half of the concert was an ARTEK performance of Monteverdi madrigals; the second half, a collaboration with students and local community members in Bach's Easter Oratorio. I had visited Middlebury earlier in the winter to do some pre-coaching of the students, who were remarkably talented and adept at their instruments.<br />
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The best part playing side-by-side with my college organ professor (now retired), Emory Fanning, who played chamber organ with us for the Bach. Still a great player!<br />
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The Bach Festival in Mead Chapel at Middlebury College.<br />
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Emory Fanning, organist par excellence!<br />
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<br />Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5490120319583513088.post-24907210808598735832012-03-25T18:01:00.000-07:002012-09-08T18:02:13.121-07:00A trip to Cincinnati<span style="font-family: inherit;">My husband Dongsok Shin and I attended Antiqua Nova, the <span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">2012 Joint Meeting and Festival of the Midwestern and Southeastern Historical Keyboard Societies</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">, on March 23-25, 2012.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">We drove there in our van in order to transport our antique Benedict fortepiano. Travelling with us was my student Christina Kwon, a graduate student at Montclair State University. It's a long way from New York to Cincinnati, and we had fun getting to know Christina better. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">At the conference, I performed a solo organ recital, and together Dongsok and I performed four-hands Mozart on the Benedict piano. Dongsok also gave a wonderful talk, complete with Powerpoint visuals, about his research into the history of the piano, and why he feels the instrument was likely built by Karl Benedict.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">We also met old friends, got tips on goose-quilling from Owen Daly, and renewed our acquaintance with Stephen Birkett, who has promised to supply us with sufficient amounts of his historically-produced iron wire to enable us to restring my Flemish harpsichord with his wire (after my daughter paints a beautiful 18th century design on the soundboard, of course!)</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">Here's a few photos from the event.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">First, Owen Daly's Vaudry harpsichord, which we've always loved, and were happy to visit again.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 21px;">The Juget-Sinclair organ in Roberta Gary's studio at the Conservatory of Music in Cincinnati. This is the organ I performed my recital upon.</span></span>Gwendolyn Tothhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13820186281000004950noreply@blogger.com0